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grooving to that goema beat

Cape Times, June 21 2005

A Russian gramophone plays a pennywhistle jive tune, Little Lemmy and Big Joe, recorded in South Africa in the 1940’s.
We’re huddled round the gramophone at cosy Dudu’s in Loop Street, the meeting place on a Monday night where you’ll meet jazz aficionado’s like the mercurial Iain Harris and gentle Michael Wolf. These two very likeable and enthusiastic individuals have injected a fresh energy into a new concept – intimate Cape Town jazz safaris. Listening to Winston Mankunku, we’re bundled into Iain’s champagne lounge of a 1979 Merc and it’s pouring with rain as we head out on the N2 toward Bridgetown. We’re off to meet the Goema Captain himself, Mac Mckenzie. “His mum is cooking,” Iain tells us excitedly. “Cape Town snoek!”

We’re talking about how few good jazz venues there are in Cape Town. ‘What would we do without Swingers jazz club on Monday nights in Landsdowne?” asks Iain. “As for Kennedy’s it’s jazz for mum and dad” chirps Michael. We all agree The Green Dolphin is mainstream and commercial. “But there’s a new spot called Chilies in Long. A sit-down chill jazz venue,” says Iain. To be fair, The Green Dolphin’s starts Jazz Impressions this July on Wednesday nights showcasing new jazz talent - two bands and six soloists each night. But, if you’re into something far more personal, and memorable, I highly recommend this duo’s jazz safari. You get to listen to Cape Town’s jazz legends – in their lounge! Mac Mckenzie, a lively, charming host warmly invites us into his home to drink red wine and chill on his couch.

Our group includes a Belgian and German exchange student, a Swiss girl studying theology at UCT, and David Kramer’s nephew, Stephen. Mac gives us a short history of Goema music, his “traditional music”. “We had to give our music a new name. It’s been tarnished with derogatory names like Cape Coon Carnival and Minstrel music,” He explains Goema came about when they slowed down the music adding some jazz and classical music, “so we could express ourselves in our own way.”
His dad was a musician, his dad’s dad was a musician, and his dad was a musician. “That’s how it works in our community,” says Mac. “I was just born into it. When I was young we used to dance to Charlie Parker and Brahms, Tchaikovsky, even West Side Story. My parents ran open-house jazz parties called Hops parties charging R5 at the door.” His mum “Ma Mac” chimes in: “Just five Shillings in my day. This lounge in the 1950s and early 1960s was packed full of wonderful people. We pushed all the furniture into the bedroom for the night so the band could play in this lounge and people danced and I cooked up a storm….”
Their home was the centre of entertainment celebrating the true house party, “but when movies came out, it changed everything,” says Mac.
“In those days people in our neighbourhood only had a telephone if you were a mid-wife or a policeman,” adds Ma Mac. There’s a knock at the door. A man in a full-length navy coat strides in. He is from passport control. But he is here to see Mac. “I heard about this jazz evening at work. You know I even have posters of you. I’m your biggest fan,” says Faizel. They jam. Everyone pulls out guitars to jam – with Mac! Ma Mac sitting in the corner with a cup of her favourite Strawberry tea sighs: “now this makes me happy – just like it should be.”

Jazz Tours: 021 – 790 2592 or info@andulela.com

The Cape Town Jazz Safari
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